I’m always confused by how quickly pumpkin beers hit the
shelves in the fall. If the pumpkins are being harvested right now, how did
they get in the beer that’s in the supermarket right now? Plus, they tend to
taste more like cinnamon toothpaste than grandma’s pumpkin pie.
Surprisingly, I’ve got good things to say about Dogfish Head
Punkin Ale, produced by Delaware’s first brewpub.
I like Dogfish Head’s pumpkin beer over others I’ve tried
because it tastes like beer … and not like a spice rack. The malts are in
balance with -- instead of being overwhelmed by -- the cinnamon, allspice, and
nutmeg. More surprising (to me) is that I’m not a brown ale fan. They can be
heavy and sweet, but even with organic brown sugar added, this one’s got a
little bite. I’m going to guess that the pumpkin meat Dogfish Head adds in the
mash cuts the “sweet.”
Dogfish Head Punkin Ale pours the color of, well, pumpkin butter and the
aroma carries the promise of all those spices without slapping you in the face. It's subtle enough to be more than an autumn novelty, even deserving of a second or third bottle, but beware. At 7% ABV, this great pumpkin could sneak up on you.